Day 12; Çukurbağ
The Lycian Way as a walk can be seen as millions of micro twists and turns as you weave around rocks and prickly shrubs, all within thousands of zigzagging and winding paths up and down hills and around gorges all set in the bigger picture of a looping snaking route that takes in the ancient sites while still trying to pass through settlements with food and accommodation. And breathe, because that is the Lycian way; lower case "way" intended. I mention this as this morning I will enjoy open forest tracks with little to get in the way and it will feel glorious.
Last night I ate with the Dutch couple from the other night, we breakfasted together and bumped into each other during the day. It was good having some company. All in all a very good day though today took longer than expected and the days ahead are mostly long.
But the Lycian Way is also a history tour and today we will visit the ancient city of Phellos. You have seen enough by now to know what to expect. An ampitheatre and lots of tombs, some of them raised and maybe a mosaic or two. Today is a long walk though not challenging apart from a hill at the end so I don't expect to be in full sight seeing mode. Especially as my accommodation doesn't do food and is set out of town. Breakfast is in 5 minutes time (6:30am) to accommodate the long day and I am already booted for the day ahead.
Phellos is usual in having a Lycian name but unusual in now being known by its Greek name (Phellos) meaning "stony ground" and the city dates from 500 BCE. As if the Lycian Way could get any stonier.
The forest tracks do feel good as being able to stride out for once feels like a luxury.
Up in the mountain pastures there are shelters which are fairly basic.
I get up to around 1,000m today with spectacular views, though I started high so there hasn't been much climbing. One highlight today was seeing some wild horses. The mares ahead were skittish and circled round so they were safely behind me, then a stallion positioned himself between me and the mares keeping guard until I had passed by. No dogs today though a dog from the last village walked quietly with the Dutch couple the full 20km to the next village.
The walking does take in mountain paths though not too onerous apart from one spot where you have to navigate carefully through the brush. I heard an English couple just 5 metres away and all I heard was "...it isn't this way we've been here before". I didn't see or hear them again.
I wish I had explored the tombs more on what I thought was the approach to Phellos as by the time I reached the notice board for Phellos I realised I had just walked through it without noticing so this is the only photo I have.
Last night I ate with the Dutch couple from the other night, we breakfasted together and bumped into each other during the day. It was good having some company. All in all a very good day though today took longer than expected and the days ahead are mostly long.
Do I perform some major surgery on my plan now or see how the days go and be tactical?
