Day 2; Cennet Beach (Alinca)
The Turkish word "cennet" translates to paradise or heaven and though most Muslims would believe in a heaven in some form let's say I am headed to paradise beach. Though just how heavenly I don't know as I will be camping with uncertainty over food and water. Though cennet translates to Eden, Elysium and similar terms it does also translate to "pie" so there is hope.
At Kabak my planned route takes me plunging down a steep hill to the beach. I bail after a while when I think gravity may overtake the grip of my boots and get to climb back up again. I will now take the alternate route to Alinca which is inland from cennet beach from where I can go to Sidyma which wasn't originally on the plan but I now see is a must. Without going into the detail of my route plans and options it means I get to see Sidyma and retain my planned two shorter days.
The route options on the Lycian Way start early and I have opted to hug the coast using a coin toss over careful route analysis. My guidebook is good but I am not up to the task of interpreting it. I find the guidebook hard to read and if I force myself then the words just start to spin and swirl like whirling dervishes. I try and find a poem that makes my head spin in a similar manner but all I do is fall for the 19th century american poet Emily Dickinson.
A Book by Emily Dickinson
There is no frigate like a book
To take us lands away,
Nor any coursers like a page
Of prancing poetry.
This traverse may the poorest take
Without oppress of toll;
How frugal is the chariot
That bears a human soul!
The day starts with a 7:30am breakfast and a walk up hill through the scrub. The walk takes in many ancient monuments and I think I spot an isolated tomb.
Later on I come across what can only be the new hideout of a James Bond arch villain which adopts two prancing unicorns by the main gates, presumably to deflect attention from the scheming going on inside.
There is reassurance that I am on the right path though the Faralya sign is pointing in the wrong direction.
More usefully there is a very good description of the Lycian Way as it covers the key points. Obviously they didn't check the translation and no, you're right, the Romans never used tarmac. It was of course the Scot MacAdam who invented the crushed stone road surface and the Welshman Hooley who added tar in the early 20th century to make tarmacadam or just tarmac for short.
The route I have now opted for looks equally impossible but the path winds its way.
It feels remote out here and the signs of wild boar ploughing up the sides of the trail are backed up by the occasional midden (toilet). I am feeling jumpy as I listen to the creaks and groans of the parched forest when I hear the sudden light thunder of hooves. It is only a wild goat this time.
The white and red stripe signage has been good and where helpful people pile rocks to mark the way sometimes going overboard.
The second half of today was tiring in the heat and I reach Alinca at 4pm. Ironically, I am so fatigued from lugging my tent that I havn't the energy to find a campsite so I stop at the first of the inexpensive pansiyon's (pension or bed and breakfast).
Sun hat, suncream, lots of water and the cool of the forest. Tired, but a great day out in the open. I see my accommodation is a beach hut style cabin a bit like the detective's accommodation in the TV series Death in Paradise. In keeping with the theme it comes with a lizard which comes and goes at will under the door.
