The End; If only I'd known
A summary of my Lycian Way experience which is intended as a list of questions to ask yourself.
The picture below is of Nasreddin Hodja (1208 - 1284) who was a philosopher, sage and master of humour from Anatolia. I imagine his advice on the Lycian Way would be along these lines, "if you are worried about being bitten by a dog, then let one bite you early in your journey then you can stop worrying."
Any useful resources to get me started?
Nice overview:
Detailed practical information:
The official site:
Organised Tours
The Kate Clow guidebook has all the historical information and the high-level maps for planning. You also get a short document on accommodation which looks pitiful but has the accommodation you need; there just isn't that much of it and the accommodation doesn't always have an address, physical or internet. In addition you get the .GPX Tracks for the route which are invaluable. I didn't quite tie the Kate Clow information together in the best way during planning but it is all there. Villages don't have street names so the Kate Clow accommodation list can't provide that. The book also provides information on risks such as steep or slippery sections. In some places the book may reference a place that isn't shown on the map or use an alternate place name. The writing style is concise so you may need to re-read or do more research but the information is generally there. Turkey isn't the UK and planning needs a different sense of perspective and awareness.
How much water to carry?
With 30 centigrade heat be prepared to carry at least 3 litres while walking and one of those with hydration tablets/powders added. If on any given day you feel confident that you can start with less then fine. Practice walking hills with some of that extra 3Kg. Drinking too much neat water and perspiring salty sweat will lead to an imbalance so learn to judge this. Hydrate mornings and evenings and drink just enough during the day as the more you drink the more you perspire.
Is the local water OK to drink?
I used the water in my bathroom to fill bottles and it was fine as tap water is chlorinated. I also used water from village taps and springs but with a water purification tablet added. It's worth doing your own Web search on the subject and if in doubt have water purification tablets to hand remembering that they take 30 minutes to be effective. You may also want the reassurance of a water filter if the water has bits in it. Make sure you know how to use your filter and still use purification tablets after filtering. And do the maths, 5 litres a day for 30 days is 150 tablets if you are using tablets for everything, not that you need to. Remember, you need to drink before, during and after walking.
Bottle or Bladder?
Bladder here refers to the pouches with a drinking tube attached so you can carry lots of water and sip on the go while keeping your hands free. Personal choice really but in hot weather you need to drink little and often. The bladder would be a slightly lighter option.
How much food to carry?
There is a surprising amount en-route as the locals set up shop to cater for walkers though always look ahead. Practice your food strategy and carry enough including that backup snack of dates, raisins and nuts.
Boots or trainers?
Boots. It's a tough walk on feet and ankles and in some steep sections you will be grateful for the grip. If walking in hot weather you won't need Gortex lined boots.
Gaiters or not?
I am not a fan of gaiters as I see them as just something else to get wet and muddy in the UK. However, on the Lycian Way if you are wearing shorts some suitable gaiters would protect your lower legs and keep the thorns and burrs from sticking to your socks. They would have helped when a received a small bite from a dog. That said, if I repeat this I would probably still go for just socks.
Cash or Card?
You will need cash in rural cafés and Pansiyons though how much depends on how many days and where you will spend your money. Though I booked through booking.com less than half of the bookings took the money via booking.com, the other half was managed at the property who may take cash or card and many preferred cash. All of that does make juggling cash difficult if you are walking for 30 days with limited access to ATMs, or incurring ATM fees. I wish I had planned out my cash needs better to avoid cash anxiety. Given Turkey's current level of inflation it is pointless providing values other than pounds sterling. These are good prices so expect to pay more and yes, I pulled the F's off the menu.
Half board at a rustic pension. £20.00
Half board at a tourist pension. £30.00
Fish, chips and salad. £5.00
Filled pancake. £2.50
Fanta. £1.00
Effe Beer. £2.50
What towns have ATMs?
Depending on the route options you take there are more major towns with ATMs than you would think from the high level view.
Ölüdeniz
Kinik, near Xanthos
Gelemis, near Patara
Kalkan
Kaş
Demre
Finike
Çirali
Göynük
Antalya
Long trousers or short?
It is a Muslim country and village fashion is to generally cover up. Most walkers do go short in hot weather given the temperatures and I haven't noticed any problems with this. You are walking through prickly scrub at times and this may influence your choice. I got scratches most days.
How fit do I need to be?
Practice doing your planned distances and elevations on multi-day hikes, testing out your kit and backpack weight. On my second day I arrived at 4pm and people were filing in at 7pm just as the sun was setting and you don't want to be walking in the dark unless you deliberately hide from the afternoon heat and can reliably arrive before dark. Good aerobic fitness and strength will help but you also need to have put that to practice in walking. Compared to the UK or caminos it is tough walking.
Torch or not?
During the autumn walking season it is dark at 7pm (6.30pm Mid-october) so you may be walking in the dark between lodging and food. A head torch would be sensible unless you are happy with your mobile torch feature though mobile torches aren't really effective at lighting the way in darkness.
Powerbank or not?
I carried a 700g Powerbank (which is too heavy) as I planned to camp but if you have a good phone battery that lasts a day and a hotel room then perhaps a small Powerbank just in case.
I heard that you must camp some sections?
There are three sections you can walk that demand camping but you only have to walk one of those and even then you could jump ahead by taxi or minibus. The three day section from Demre to Finike is a good example and would make for a good rest day or two. That said the Eastern mountains have limited accommodation and I camped twice from Göynük to Geyikbayiri.
Camping, Pension or Hotel?
It is hard finding affordable hotels to pre-book. Many Pensions may work out nearly as much as a cheap hotel. Really cheap accommodation is tricky to find though you may find a £10 camping pod or the £20 half board pension. Camping in the heat won't be fun and camp grounds look basic; a good groundsheet and a freestanding tent will be useful. Either use a company to arrange everything or book as you go. If you have a mobile number for the Pansiyon you can WhatsApp or text in English or use Google Translate.
Organised or self-planned?
Unless you love freedom I would suggest getting a company to organise your accommodation. They will be able to get good deals and manage the route and taxi transfers better than you. I found planning a real chore and I only managed to do a mediocre job of it. With what I know now I would go without booking and target the Pansiyons or use a company to arrange everything. I enjoy solo walking but this route is remote and a guided tour would have been good on this occasion.
The whole route or just part?
I am used to 30-day walks so I guess this isn't a question I can answer for you. Just bare in mind it's a tough walk. If you have done 14-day walks with 900m of ascent each day and feel up for a challenge then do it.
What navigation tool?
MAPS.ME with the most recent .GPX Tracks installed or your favourite navigation app. MAPS.ME loaded the full set in one go whereas Komoot wanted one segment at a time. Buying the Kate Clow book gives you the most recent version of the route on .GPX Tracks which is important. An app such as MAPS.ME will come with black dotted lines showing the route but that will be out of date so the latest ones from Culture Routes of Turkey are the ones to get.
Is the navigation easy?
Yes, you have the red and white markers, cairns, the guidebook notes on difficult sections and the all important .GPX Tracks. Just remember to keep your brain switched on and eyes open. If in doubt it may be something as simple as a dull red flash or a stone balanced on another that keeps you on track. The danger is walking straight ahead as others have done and missing a turn. Don't stop navigating!
Sometimes there will be references to a village such as Gey but no mention on maps until someone says it is the same place as Yediburun. Or place names will be repeated such as Göynük.
Sometimes the Kate Clow maps and Google Maps don't seem to line up easily. Kate's don't have North or a scale shown and in some areas you need to get the orientation of maps consistent.
East-to-West or West-to-East?
With hindsight I could have done East to West meaning I could have had the cold comfort of the mountains early on then the cooler temperatures of October on lower level ground. I suspect there isn't much in it and going West to East my body was hardened for the mountains when I got there.
What SIM?
Turkcell. Get the tourist 28-day deal then use the Turkcell app to topup just before your deal runs out.
Is the trail technically difficult?
Some sections are steep and you might be zigzagging down a hill that is too steep to walk down directly. The guidebook details problem areas but you might find a normal steep descent challenging. I have come down sections just fine in good weather and the hotel owner at the bottom has spoken of cuts, bruises and broken bones from the same descent when wet. Part of the problem I feel - and this links to navigation - is that walkers instinctively take the trodden path option that takes them downhill and then find the path getting steeper and steeper so keep to the path and keep zigzagging. Kate Clow's guidebook mentions routes to avoid in bad weather and any challenges like just after Kaş where you need to hand rucksacks down to a group member before doing your steep climb down.
I have heard about dogs in Turkey?
Do your own research on Lycian Way and Saint Paul's Way problem areas.
This is a very good overview.
This is a good one also for an overview and forum comments on dogs.
You will encounter small friendly guard dogs whose job it is to bark. Use these to get used to dogs and practiced at showing you are the boss. I got barked at quite a bit, a small bite once and befriended by a dog who walked the last two days with me. The dog that bit me was 10 metres from his front door and his owner.
Any annoyances to be aware of?
Eating outdoors is normal and you don't usually get insects. Occasionally, you may get pestered by small cats or wasps, but only very occasionally. If you wear shorts you will pick up lots of scratches and the occasional insect bite.
Any highlights to look out for?
The sunset at Faralya above Butterfly Valley as you are looking out to sea to the west. The Pansiyon on the main road above the valley has great views.
Give yourself time and energy to explore and appreciate Sidyma and stop at Rose's for a tea or a snack.
Keep stopping and taking in the views.
Letoon and Xanthos ancient sites.
Patara ancient sites; there is alot there.
Myra at Demre.
Fish restaurants at Ulupinar.
Phaselis.
