The Lycian Way

A summary of my Lycian Way experience which is intended as a list of questions to ask yourself.  The picture below is of Nasreddin Hodja (1208 - 1284) who was a philosopher, sage and master of humour from Anatolia. I imagine his advice on the Lycian Way would be along these lines, "if you are worried about being bitten by a dog, then let one bite you early in your journey then you can stop worrying." Any useful resources to get me started? Nice overview: https://www.ditchthemap.com/travel-blog/2019/6/15/-planning-guide-for-hiking-lycian-way-know-before-you-go Detailed practical information: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Lycian_Way The official site: https://cultureroutesinturkey.com/ Organised Tours https://cultureroutesinturkey.com/the-lycian-way/self-guided-tours/ The Kate Clow guidebook has all the historical information and the high-level maps for planning. You also get a short document on accommodation which looks pitiful but has the accommodation you need; ...

Yesterday I mentioned the daily blood loss and today is a personal best, I draw blood at 9.17am helped by an early start. I was clambering over a wood pile while climbing a steep slope because the shepherd had put up road blocks to direct traffic to his tea stall. Blue skies though the temperatures have been better for walking recently.  I notice some freshly splintered wood on the ground each six foot long and wonder where they have come from. Looking around I soon see the source which must be the result of a lightning strike two weeks ago; another good reason for me to have taken those two days off. Another is that today there is a deep fatigue in my legs so those rest days were invaluable. Looking at the photo below you have to wonder at the power of lightning.  I am near the finish and get a glimpse of white houses with red roofs. Then yet again the route throws up another hurdle which has a Lord of the Rings "thou shalt not ...

Let us start with the blood, sweat and swears that are the trademark of this walk. My small dog bite from Demre 12 days ago is still scabbed over but only slightly red and mildly sore so is healing well and unlikely to scar though the torn and worn socks are destined for the bin tomorrow night. The young Israeli woman I walked with for two days received a few scratches from a dog we passed. The dog belonged to a café owner who, when I passed the dog, intimated that her small dog was all bark and no bite, but the dog still managed to draw blood a few minutes later. Small dogs aside I loose a few drops of blood daily in the manner shown below. The sweat I have spoken about before and though the swears are mostly directed at my guidebook and the terrain I have to say that the book is what it is; it is on me to process the information.  The goal today is to find suitable camping and cover enough ground that I can tackle the final difficult stretch on day 30 with some streng...

Its 1pm in the morning and I wake in the tent feeling cold. The mountain air is around 13 degrees according to the forecast and luckily it is calm with no rain. I only have a thin sleeping bag (a sleeping bag liner actually) so pull on what remaining clothes I have and soon feel toasty and warm. I know I am getting closer to Antalya as I can hear a plane overhead still climbing and I have seen a few plane contrails in the sky these last 2 days. Today is 6 hours by the guidebook and camping will encourage an early start on a day where I can choose some tedious road walking to avoid a difficult section of the trail though the guidebook instructions are vague, providing summary information without elaborating. Waking at 7.30am I stay in the tent waiting for some of the sun's heat to develop and research today's route options over a biscuit breakfast. I can't find the information on the difficult section until I look at yesterday's route guide and it is in there. I opt for ...

I will be staying up at an altitude of 500m to 1,500m for the next four days and I have four end of day accommodation needs. During my earlier planning the last night - Night 30 - was booked online leaving just three nights still to fill. Last night I stayed up to do some administration which suddenly felt quite pressing.  Night 27 (tonight) I would turn-up and hope for the best. Closer inspection reveals I would be in a room in the house of a shepherd and his wife being overcharged so I changed that to camping and have bought a quantity of biscuits to see me through.  Night 28 was to turn-up and hope but again closer examination shows I need to book. A quick text and that is done. It is in a village with a shop so I can buy provisions if required. Night 29 I planned to turn up at a properly run campsite with cabins but again I see I need to notify them. A speedy text and reply shows the campsite at that location has closed down. Another night of camping as there is nothing el...

I have been meaning to catch a sunrise and I am up early with a suitable view on offer. Today is a day to relish, but with more than a hint of caution and trepidation. It goes from 900 metres down to sea level with a modest 410 metre uphill section in the second half. It travels down the beautiful Göynük valley to Göynük Canyon on old mule trails. There are two river crossings which at this time of year after the dry season will be fine (they are difficult in spring) though my guidebook says the second one you could swim so I am struggling to interpret that advice. [It turns out you can walk the crossing keeping your feet dry, and on an unrelated note you could swim in one of the natural pools.] There are also deep pools to cross that have rickety bridges some of which will create "difficulties". Difficulties is a word my guidebook likes to use. Taking the guidebook advice in its entirety I think I should expect to get my feet wet and I have put valuables (passpor...