Day 15; Üçagiz

I ate at 7pm last night and enjoyed a beer with my meal and then bottomless Turkish tea after I had eaten. Piles of salad, bulgar rice and beans with that tart fizzy yoghurt and honey for dessert. My hosts sensibly ate in the traditional manner at 8.30pm when it was cooler. The spotless 'table cloth' laid on the floor and a sharing platter raised 6 inches off the floor. At that point I gave them some privacy and reluctantly left the tea and retreated to my large but stuffy room. The dining area was a half-walled and pantile-roofed extension to the main house so open to any evening breeze. I have sampled a large range of accommodation and that has certainly enhanced the trip. 

The Turkish landscape is 80% rugged mountains with 20% for agriculture and related activity. Perhaps because of the harshness of the environment and the weather extremes across the year the Turkish people are kind, warm and welcoming. If the walking environment doesn't make you feel safe then the people do. As may be obvious by now I havn't made any effort with language and have used Google Translate when stuck. With 2 weeks walking done and some fine tuning to do it is natural that I might reflect on the way forward. For guidance last night I turned to the-man-in-the-moon as the moon is close enough to being full to have a face. He looks weary which confirms that I must be weary and need to be very, very careful. In the film Hugo, it is Georges Méliès the French cinematographer who made the classic early film A Trip to the Moon which gave life to the moon.

I seem to be drinking continuously but like a colander the liquid just flows out of me; I am talking perspiration here. I have run out of hydration tablets which help with salt levels and am reliant on a cocktail of similar tablets bought in Kaş though they don't fully meet the need they do have some sugar, salt and flavouring so make my day's drinking activity more varied.

There isn't a single route on this walk and my original plan was to follow the harder continuous 'keep left' path below. I now plan to 'keep right' and drop into Demre where there are ruins at Myra though it means road walking some sections to then rejoin the blue line.

After a gargantuan breakfast with fruit and walnuts forced upon me to take as lunch I paid £25 for my half board and depart. 

First stop is Apollonia where I explore,  you guessed it, more ruins.

If the ancient ruins are starting to feel repetative then do think for a moment on the wealth and standard of living that led to the creation of such forceful and finely carved monuments 3,000 years ago. Most have sides caved in or tops thrown off and I can only think that this is the work of grave robbers.

After Apollonia I have the option of a road route to my destination and from the hill top I can see the road and it isn't inviting. I will walk on to the coast where there may be the option of a boat to my final destination if my body gives out. I determine to push on and ensure I eat and drink. Despite my reservations about today it turns into a great eight and a half hour walk as the guidebook states and I can actually get into my stride, so full of vigour am I that I nearly stride into an open cistern.

There is another ancient site down by the water with one tomb now partially submerged in an area that was once an old port. 

And to think I nearly made today a road walk. On the last 6km I play leapfrog with a group of four walkers as I stop frequently for water as do they.  Finally one of them heads out alone. I meet her at our destination and she is heading back to her friends with water. Of all the walks I have done this is the one that appears to catch people out the most.

At close of day I check in with the-man-in-the-moon and he is content. That confirms that tomorrow is a 7 hour walk to Demre rather than a bus ride.

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